Fly Tying

Fly Tying

Article- Fly Tying, What You Need to know Before you get Started, by Rick Passek

Fly Tying, What do I need to know to get started?

I hope that by the end of this short article, you will be able to understand more clearly what is needed, and what is more of a like to have when you start out tying your flies. 

This is a question I see all the time on the many Facebook pages I go to or am admin on. What kind of Vise should I buy? What kind of Tools? Materials? Should I buy a kit? That is an easy question to answer, sort of…. There are some questions you need to ask yourself off the bat…..

  • Should I buy a Fly Tying Kit? The quick answer is absolutely NO NO NO…… The vise in the kit will be the very cheap one, which as stated above, will be fine to start, however, the tying tools in these kits are mostly very low quality and will cause more frustration than anything else. The materials supplied in these kits are usually also poor quality, bottom of the pack, dry easily broken, and leftover remnants, etc…… stay away from these kits if possible. 
  • Should I take a tying class? Yes!! If you can afford it, do it! There are many good classes out there planet-wide, find a good instructor, look at reviews, and even talk to others who have taken their class. Speak to the instructor before you buy, make sure they are someone you can learn from as everyone learns differently. I, for example, am a hands-on learner, show me and let me try while giving me feedback, others want loads of on-screen or handouts…..  **Tip** Find an instructor that specializes in the type of flies you want to tie, yes the basics and forming good habits are all the same but there is no use learning how to tie a size 20 parachute dry to start if you are going after Tarpon or Salmon. Talk to the instructor about materials. I, for one, offer in my classes (for a slight extra fee) a one-on-one shopping hour to go with the student to a local shop and explain what materials are what, how they can be used, what to look for in quality, etc…… 
  • What tools should I have? This once again is easy to answer, sort of…… This depends on what type of flies you will be tying. Dries, Wets, Trout, Salmon, Tropical, etc……. The simple answer is, that you will need the following for all:
  • uncheckedBobbins: (With ceramic insert) Don’t buy the cheap ones here, make sure to have a full ceramic insert in these, fraying thread is super frustrating. Stonefo makes a very good one for a decent price. 
  • Whip Finisher: There are two main styles, The Matarell (Rotary)i and the Thompson. The Matarell style is, in my opinion, easier to use. Size: I personally like the larger ones as I feel they can be used for all-size flies, the smaller ones are tough to use with larger flies.
  • Dubbing spinner: You could buy several different ones, but which one is best for the beginner? I have been tying for 40 years, and I still prefer the cheap small weighted Dubbing spinner like this one. This does not mean that there are not others out there that are good, there are MANY great dubbing spinners, I just really like this one because it’s simple, cheap, and works great. If you want one that is different, can be used with one hand, and works phenomenally, look at one like the larger one in the picture.
  • Bodkin: This is another one of those tools where you can save money. The bodkin is primarily used for two things, to split thread if needed, and to apply UV resin or head cement. Check these out.
  • Dubbing Brush: Now to me, this is one very essential tool. I use mine with almost every fly (Other than chironomids). I like the one from Stonefo but I also really like the brush-style one.
  • Hair Stacker: This again, is one of those items that you don’t need to spend a ton of money on. Hair stackers are used to line up the tips of hair (Mostly for Deer, Elk, Moose, etc…).
  • Scissors: This is very important, a good pair of scissors is essential. You don’t have to spend a ton of money on scissors, just know that there are certain things you just cannot do with them. To start, you will need three pairs. One every day for cutting thread, one for cutting Deer Hairs, foams, and artificial materials like blob chenille etc…….I really like Renomed Scissors, but they do come with a bit of a price tag ($50-$100), But for the beginner, I like the cheap ones from Michaels/Joannes  Just make sure you buy the sharpest point ones. I used these for many years, and for the beginner, these are great (HINT: Do Not try and cut GSP or NanoSilk threads, they do not cut well, Instead, open the scissors slightly and push them through as you hold the thread tight).
  • Hackle Pliers: Again, these depend on what you plan on tying. A good all-around one is these from Stonefo. HINT: Make sure to buy one with a good heavy jaw that will hold the hackle, frustrating to no end when they always let go.   
  • Bobbin threader: Not a huge deal, but can help with the sometimes frustrating task of getting that darn thread properly threaded through the bobbin.

So, to complete the tools question, What do you need? You need all the above, what else is there to make tying better, well there are better versions of everything above, and there are tools like Dubbing Brush makers, CDC clamps, Parapost tools, etc……. Do you need them, Absolutely not, are they fun to have, Hell ya!!

Let’s move on to a HUGE subject, Materials………..

Same question, what do I need???? Again this depends on what you want to tie. Small dry flies? Nymphs? Large tropical patterns? Salmon/Steelhead? The basics for ALL styles are:

  • Thread (Black, Olive, Red, White) to start.
  • Hooks (Buy decent hooks, don’t cheap out, you will regret it) Look at Ahrex, they carry a wide variety of hooks for Stillwater, rivers, Large tropicals, Muskie, and more. Greta hooks and the prices are on par with others. DON’T Cheap out here, you will regret it if you cheap out.
  • Dubbing (sparkle, kapok, natural, ice, seals fur substitute, Hare dubbing, etc…..)
  • Tinsel (Silver, Red, Gold) to start.
  • Flashabou (Depends on what you are tying, but Red, White, Green, and Silver are a start)
  • Hackle (Wet and Dry) Hen (wet) and Cock (Dry) hackle.
  • Marabou (Black, Olive, Red, White to start)
  • Chenille (Again, Black, Olive, Red)
  • Peacock Herl
  • Pheasant tail (Natural to start)
  • Guinea Fowl (Natural, White, green)
  • Wire (Silver, Red, Gold to start)
  • Beads/Eyes (Black/White/Silver/Gold) Beads to match hook size, see chart:
  • Head cement/UV Resin (You will need a UV light if you go with UV) Look at your local Walmart or pharmacy for Sally Hansen’s Hard as Nails, best head cement out there. For UV Resin, there are many, some of my favorites are Gulff, Semperfli, and Loon. 
  • Tying Wax, especially if you use GSP or Nanosilks,

With this list, you will be able to tie Chironomids, Wooly Buggers, Doc Spratleys, Cary Specials, Leeches, Pheasant tail nymphs, Hares ear nymphs, Shrimp, plus many more. 

If you are into tying more detailed Trout flies, Salmon/Steelhead/Tropical flies, you will need to add the following in colors for YOUR area.  (At Least):

  • CDC
  • Schlappen
  • Strung saddle
  • Deer Hair
  • Elk/Moose hair
  • Hare’s Mask
  • Blob Chenille
  • Palmer Chenille
  • Scud Back
  • Boobie Foam
  • Rubber legs
  • Spey Hackle
  • Squirrel Tail
  • Ostrich Herl
  • Teal Flank
  • Predator Fiber (Synthetic streamer materials)
  • Craft Fur
  • Plus much more…….

Depending on where you are, I suggest going to YOUR local shop, support local, they know what you need in your area. If you don’t have a local shop, try some of these online shops (Granted there are hundreds):

Materials can be a very personal choice, as not all flyfishers will target the same species and not all can afford higher end materials. For example, some of the hackles you can get from companies like Whiting or Metz can run into the $200 range for one cape, but for the beginner, there are cheaper smaller packs you can get of a lower grade feather, yes not as good, but will do you until you get better and more into tying.

There is one more thing to talk about when it comes to materials, that is color, and which ones you should have. Again, this deeply depends on what fish you will be targeting. An example is, if I am targeting Rainbow trout in lakes in Western Canada/USA There is no need to carry a ton of pink/purple/silver doctor blue (SDB) etc…… These are mostly Steelhead/Salmon colors. This does not mean you eventually should not have these colors for Trout, it just means that you do not need to have all of the above materials in all these colors. Again, an example would be dubbing for Rainbows in Lakes. I would have purple and pink in my tying kit, but as a beginner, I would say not right off the bat, Stick with the Black/Red/Olive/Hares ear & natural colors. This goes for many of the materials listed above, Pink/Purple/SDB are MUST haves for Steelhead/Salmon/Tropical patterns, but do you need to have the more natural colors, again, not right off the bat. 

For Trout in Rivers, I would stick with more natural-looking colors (tan, greens, black, white, red, cinnamon, caramel, etc…..)  in dubbing, marabou, pheasant, peacock, etc….. You should have some orange and pink dubbing to use as hot spots, but this again can wait a bit if needed.

For trout in lakes, the above is true as well, however, you will need to add other colors like chartreuse, rust/copper, and purple, but for the beginner, these can also wait.

To wrap trout colors up (Lake & River), must-have colors are black, red, white, tan, cream, greens (light to dark), and next step colors are purple, orange, chartreuse, and blue.

Once you get more into fly tying, you will start looking at everything as tying materials. I don’t dare to go into a Cabelas or Bass Pro with a pair of scissors or a knife, some of those stuffed animals would end up bald…..LOL.  I am ALWAYS on the lookout at dollar stores, hobby shops, fabric stores, etc….. There are a ton of materials that can be found at these stores, sometimes just keeping an eye open you will find them, For example, in fabric stores, I can buy Palmer Chenille at a fly shop for $6 a pack (1-3 yards), at a fabric store, I can find 50 yards for $10. 

Start small, think of one or two patterns you would like to try and go buy materials for those, then, once you are ok with those, look at a few more, buy those materials, etc…… Soon, you will have a lot to play with and your obsession will begin. BTW, if you think that tying your own flies will save you money, NOT A CHANCE!! It will allow you to tie variations that can’t be bought, but you will never save money tying your own, and if anyone tells you this, they are not being honest.  

What else do you need to make your experience a good one?

To wrap things up, I’ll say this. Don’t get suckered into buying a Kit, THEY MOSTLY ALL SUCK, at least every one I’ve seen. Don’t buy high-end stuff to start, find out if you even like it. Don’t be afraid to go to the myriad of online sites (Facebook. Instagram, Tic Tok, Websites) and ask questions, ANY questions, even the most basic ones, how are you to know if you’ve never done it before? Check out YouTube, TONS of videos out there for the beginner. Go to the local fly shop, look at all the materials, ask the workers and other customers what certain materials are for and how they are used. The FlyFishing community in general is a very open one, and most will be more than happy to help out.  

There are a few Items that I would buy in good quality are:

  • Bobbin (get a ceramic one)
  • Light, absolute MUST
  • Chair, need to be comfortable.
  • Scissors, buy one good pair and several cheap ones, don’t use good ones for Foam, Wire, Synthetics, Deer Hair, leave those to the cheap ones. 
  • Thread, don’t cheap out, buy good quality thread, this is the base of everything you do. Make sure to have a few spools of Semperfli NanoSilk or GSP, and some Semperfli classic waxed styles as well. Size of thread will be determined by what you are tying. A 8/0-18/0 in a NanoSilk will be great for almost all (Larger number, thinner thread). A 3/0-8/0 in a classic thread will be great for Salmon/Steelhead/Tropical flies, but the 8/0 is also good for many small patterns as well. 
  • Materials: If you want to maybe spend a bit more on a few materials, spend it on a good quality cape (Hackle). Wet and dry, the cheap ones will do to start, but they are of lesser quality and can be brittle and break, so frustrations can happen. 

Some final keys to FlyTying are:

  • Enjoy yourself, don’t get frustrated, you won’t be good overnight.
  • Take your time to learn.
  • Experiment, learn proportions, sizes, etc…..
  • Ask questions, no questions are stupid
  • Don’t be embarrassed with your first flies, even some of the best in the world tied crappy flies to start, and some of us still do the odd time…….. Not everything we experiment with works out.
  • Practice practice practice, oh, and practice some more. Don’t forget, it’s just thread and feathers, it can always be cut off the hook.

Tight Lines & Fun Times

Rick Passek (The FlyFish Fanatic)

Fly Tying

Must Have Fly in your Stillwater Box!! The HotSpot Chironomid

There are so many GREAT chironomid patterns out there. So many amazing Tiers in BC, Canada have honed these little bastards to an artform. Have a look at guys like Trevor Tatarczuk , The BC Fly Guys , John Kent and MANY more for more insperation.

There are some amazing patterns that in my opinion are MUST haves, This video is one I did a while back, but still to this day is one of my top 3 producing Chironomid patterns. Check out the video for Full Tying Instructions Below.

Tight Lines Everyone, Rick

Scroll to Top